once de septiembre...chile.

I imagine that the average "american" doesn't know, but the 11th of September marks a dark day on the history of other countries than just our own. "El once de septiembre" of 1973 was the day of the military coup lead by General Agosto Pinochet which violently overthrew the socialist government of Salvador Allende (needless to say with much help from the good old CIA and other US govt organizations). This day, where hundreds of leftist leaders and activists were taken prisoner and crammed into the national stadium marked only the very beginning of a 16 year terror-centered dictatorship. During this time, Pinochet not only "saved" Chile from economic ruin (as critics of Allende claim would have happened if his administration had continued) and set it on a course of fast-track economic development which have put it at the top of the Latin American ladder but also, along with his secret police, caused the direct death of over 3,000 people (many of whom are still considered "disappeared" as the bodies were thrown in mass graves in the desert or the sea) (see: voces) Beyond that, over 27,000 were victims of torture both in military detention centers and in the chilean equivalent of concentration camps. The scars of this regime, which ended in 1989, are present still today on almost every aspect of Chilean character and national identity.
Last December, after everyone had looked away thinking he had recovered from his most recent heart attack, Agosto Pinochet died. Many were sad and lit candles and sang songs to the person they considered "su salvador" from the dark life under communism. Others were disappointed that he had not been brought to justice. But, most were just happy. The most "just" part of the whole thing was that he died on the very day that is the antithesis of his existence- International Human Rights day. Because of this and the great joy the chilean people felt to finally be out from under this man's shadow (even though he had been out of power for as long as he had it), the demonstration/march that the families of the desaparecidos and the victims of human rights violations had planned turned into a party. Not so much celebrating the death, but more celebrating the new life that can be found in healing. This march, which filled Plaza Italia and closed down the main central avenue for the whole day and into the next, was not your typical chilean "protest". In general, their soccer team wins or they are mad about the transportation system, they go out and break glass and vandalize and make a general ruckus. This was just the opposite. Happiness, joy, singing and dancing were the only things present on this day.
It was an incredible feeling to see so many different sides of a people I've spent so much time observing (and eventually becoming like). And it was beautiful to share such a collective joy. Here are some videos:


I should have written this a long time ago but I figured today was sort of appropriate too.


more videos but internet is slow... will post soon.